Among Giants: A Weekend in the Redwoods

The Redwoods, a vast system of parks in Northern California, offers a humbling reminder that we humans are but minuscule and temporary creatures. With their sweeping branches bridging into sky-high canopies, these ancient behemoths completely dominate the landscape, which includes 200 miles of trails, 60 miles of coastline and enough parks to confuse anyone.

Our original plan was to be in Death Valley National Park in April but Coronavirus had other ideas - as it so often does. Unsure how everything would unfold, we decided to postpone our trip to August. Since I prefer my body in its unmelted form, we nixed Death Valley as a summertime road trip and opted for something more manageable. (Honestly, just thinking about Death Valley’s current 120 degree temperature makes me sweat). So where to?

Enter the Redwoods. It’s not too hot, sits on the coast and we could drive there in 10 hours. Done, done and done. Plus, if it’s good enough for Jurassic Park and Star Wars to film at, it’s good enough for me.

On a Wednesday morning, we boogied out of Seattle and rode the asphalt runway that is I-5. Our mission: to find some really big trees. A few stops were made along the way, like tacos in Portland, coffee every three hours and a fork in the road. Wait, what was that? Did I say “fork in the road?” I sure did. Five minutes off the freeway sits a 10-foot tall beauty beside a nondescript field of… corn? wheat? Honestly I can’t say, my eyes were busy taking in the magnificence of the fork. After this very important stop, we continued on and eventually crossed the Oregon-California state line, quickly finding ourselves in tall tree territory.

After a few days pondering amongst gargantuan things, I must admit that the Redwoods is not my favorite national park, though fear not, it certainly has its strong points. Personally, my ideal park has a variety of hikes, awe-inspiring scenery and less crowds (if possible). Being from Seattle - a hiker’s paradise surrounded by fairly sizable trees - the Redwoods felt similar to home. Even so, our trees are not nearly as enormous as those in the Redwoods - not even close - so I’m glad that I was able to crane my neck for a few days at the remarkable trees.

If you are planning a trip here, or merely curious about its vastness, then you are in luck. In this post I offer a breakdown of the park, or what I unofficially dub Redwoods for Dummies.

national vs. state parks

A park has many names: Redwoods National Park, Redwoods State Park, Humboldt County, Del Norte County, Del Norte State Park, Jedediah Smith, Prairie Creek, Elk Creek. At any given time we found ourselves wondering one or more of the following: are we in the national park? In one of the state parks? Which state park? Is said state park in the Redwoods park system? Yes, this place is capital-c Confusing. (Though more than likely you are in a state park.)

My advice: learn the lay of the land prior to your trip so you avoid driving back and forth like you’re in a pinball machine. With the number of roads and side roads to those roads, GoogleMaps will surely be your friend. Seeing as service is spotty - something about thick canopies from thousand year old trees blocking cell signals? - saving trails and sights as “pins” is even better.

del norte state park | northwest

Del Norte, just south of Crescent City, is mostly a coastal area. Overall, it’s not the most exciting region and doesn’t offer as much, but you will find a few short trails, beaches, and Mill Creek Campground.

prairie creek state park | central

As the most popular of the state parks, you will undoubtedly find plenty to do here. Explore Fern Canyon, drive the scenic byway, camp on the beach and even find some of the Redwoods’ most super-sized giants.

Jedediah smith state park | Northeast

With its greater density of trees and bright forest hues, this was easily my favorite area. The accessible coastline, such as Klamath, is also a great spot to unwind. As a bonus, Jedediah is far less crowded.

redwood national park | south

From my understanding, Redwood State Park and National Park are used interchangeably. This area, located more inland, has the Tall Tree Groves and Lady Bird Johnson Trail as the dominating attractions.

But wait, there’s more!

Patrick’s Point state park | North of eureka

While not technically part of the Redwoods park system it is very much worth a visit. It has numerous overlooks to catch views of the ocean and coastline, a campground and several quick and easy trails to explore.

avenue of the giants | scenic byway

This is 31-mile section of Highway 101 is also not in the park but is a popular destination nonetheless. Cruise about two hours south of the national park and you’ll soon be gliding past many more really big old trees.

about redwood trees

So what exactly makes these giant trees so special? Well, first of all, they are, in fact, giant. They are also old. Like, really old. Okay, not like Treebeard old, but still very old. Third, they are fire resistant, and if that does not impress you, I don’t know what can.

Commonly known as the tallest trees in the world, Redwoods average 250 feet tall, though they can clock in at far over 300 feet if given time to grow. For reference, Big Ben is 310 feet; the Statue of Liberty is 305 feet; a football field is 360 feet from post to post. Hyperion, the World’s largest living tree is 380 feet and 1,500 years old. As you can imagine, Redwoods are also very thick; many being 70-100 feet in circumference. Like I said, these bad boys are humungous.

One of their most impressive qualities is their indestructibility, including their resistance to fire (and insects and fungi and disease), which helps them live for as long as they do. Sometimes fire will hollow out their base (known as “goose pens” because settlers would often use the open area to corral their livestock in), but despite this they continue to thrive and grow tall. Aside from a very large and sharp saw, they are incredibly resilient.

An example of a “goose pen” featuring 8 foot tall openings

Before loggers came in drunk with dreams of self-prosperity and seeking to strike it rich on lumber and gold, Redwoods occupied nearly 2 million acres of land along the northern California coast. After destroying the natural land, as only humans can, Redwoods cover only 100,000 acres today. For non-math whizzes out there (ahem, myself), that’s a 95% reduction rate. Today, the remaining 5% of Redwoods are protected by the State of California, which you can visit on a trip to their state and national parks.

As for their age, most Redwoods are around, or just shy of, 1,000 years old, though if their indestructibility prevails they can live to be 3,000 years old. With humans no longer cutting them down, perhaps future scientists will find they can live even longer. Maybe even to Treebeard’s ripe age of 17,051. Guess we (or someone in the very distant future) will one day find out.

TOP SIGHTS

lady bird johnson trail | redwood national park

This easy 1.5 mile loop is named after the First Lady who promoted the protection of the lands. Most will argue that this is the best trail to visit if going to the Redwoods, making it a popular stop. While this is a lovely trail with many-a-tree, I disagree and think that there are several other areas that offer equally phenomenal tree sightings. That said, it’s still a beautiful walk!

klamath beach |  jedediah state park

Best at sunset but lovely at all hours, Klamath offers the quintessential ocean beach experience. Pull right off of Highway 101 and plop yourself down among the large rocks, misty cliffs, and chilly (but refreshing!) waters. We tried to reach Klamath Overlook, a much recommended spot, but as of our visit it was closed to traffic.

fern canyon | prairie creek state park

A trip to the Redwoods doesn’t have to be exclusively about tall trees, and sometimes the small green fauna is just as enticing. Fern Canyon is, as one would expect, a canyon of ferns, but more than that it is an ultra green paradise with small streams leading the way past walls of endless ferns and moss.

Most famous for being a filming location for Jurassic Park, this flat 1-mile out-and-back trail is very popular (I’ve seen it said that it’s a loop but I didn’t get that vibe). The parking lot is small, so I recommend avoid the busy afternoons. I also gently suggest wearing shoes you can get wet as crossing the streams can be get the toesies a little damp.

Newton B. Drury Scenic Drive | prairie creek state park

This 10-mile drive, named after a man who spent 40 years preserving the Redwoods, is just off Highway 101 (as most things in the park are). The road snakes through Old Growth forest and has several stop off points, including the ever popular Big Tree Wayside. There are also a lot of elk signs, though we were not privy to any such sightings.

patricks point & Wedding point trails | patricks point state park

Patricks Point is a short trail within Patricks Point State Park (name variation is clearly not their strong suit). Within the area is a campground and several easy trails zig-zagging the coastline. My favorite was Wedding Point, which provided a nice overlook of the ocean and gave an almost Mediterranean feel with the contrast of light gray rocks against the bright blue water.

battery point lighthouse |  crescent city

Built in 1855, Battery Point is one of the first lighthouses on the west coast and was a vital landmark for the region’s early trade. It is only accessible during low tide at which time visitors may walk up to explore the grounds.

While in the vast 10-street town of Crescent City, I recommnd stopping by the SeaQuake Brewery (a very busy spot) or the Port o’ Pints Pub (less so). Enoteca is also a great spot to grab lunch on the patio.

Stout grove trail |  jedediah state park

This trail was both solitary and exquisite - a personal favorite combination. It felt like the colors were brighter here - like the saturation was upped just a bit compared to trails in the southern end of the park. The trees gave off more of a red hue, the ferns seemed like a deeper shade of green and the brown dirt looked more fresh than dusty. At only 0.6 miles long, this loop is best paired with its neighboring trail, Simpson-Reed.

Simpson-Reed trail |  jedediah state park

Like the Stout Grove trail, this a dense 0.7 mile loop is an immaculate area to see Redwoods at their finest. Both are less popular areas, and with less tourists there is a better chance to get that forest zen - to soak up a quiet moment with only the rustling of leaves and chirping birds and a sense of being so small in a place of such enormity. This trail also shoots off to the river, which is a lovely little detour.

Trees of Mystery |  jedediah state park

The abundance-of-abnormally-tall-things theme continues at Trees of Mystery, which is a name that evokes more mystique than it actually offers. In truth, it is a more or less a kitschy gift shop with a little extra something-something. Inside there is a very small “museum” of Native American artifacts, in back there is a gondola ride and canopy trails, and right out front you have a 49 foot tall Paul Bunyon statue and his trusty sidekick, Babe. Its an experience to visit, I’ll give it that.

When to Visit

While there is typically an ideal and not-so-ideal time to visit a place, the Redwoods are a year-round destination. You can always expect coastal fog and a slight chill in the air, so a rain jacket is essential no matter the season.

High Season | Jun-Aug

Summertime is, of course, the busiest time in the park. You’ll find more families and less camping options, but the weather is decidedly nicer.

Average temps: 70-80° F

shoulder | sep - oct, mar -may

Fall and spring are ideal as the crowds taper out, though you’ll take a chance with the weather as this is certainly a rainier time of the year for the Redwoods.

Average temps: 50-65° F

Low Season | dec - feb

Winter can be a bit dreary, but if you are looking for the park at its moodiest and most dramatic, winter may be optimal.

average temps: 40-60° F

Where to Stay

With so many state parks in the vicinity there are plenty of developed campgrounds for tents and RVs, though whether they will be available is an entirely different story. During summer especially, booking in advance is ideal.

We stayed at Mill Creek Campgrounds in Del Norte which is your typical campground; showers, drive-up spots, fire pits, too many loops to drive around that you get lost every single time (or maybe that was just us). Were we camped directly next to our car? No. Did we hear our neighbors until midnight? Yes. I did like that the sites are a bit more secluded and offered lots of tree cover for a sense of privacy.

If I were to return, I would probably opt out of camping and splurge on a cozy AirBnB on the beach.

camping

developed campgrounds

There are four campgrounds: Jedediah Smith, Mill Creek, Elk Prairie, Gold Bluffs Beach. Each has hot showers and food lockers.

Standard fee: $35 per night

airbnb

Airbnb Options

For a more private and civilized experience, several Airbnb rentals dot the coast. Opt for a bungalow in Crescent City, a cottage (with peacocks?) near Patricks Point, or even a cabin in the woods by Trinidad.

cabins

emerald forest cabins

For something a little cozier, a little more private, and a little more money, a cabin in the woods is a great choice.

Double room: $139 + taxes per night

last-minute tips

01. Backcountry camping options are pretty limited. If that’s your jam, search for Elam Camp and 44 Camp. Both are located in Redwoods National Park/State Park area.

02. If you’re looking for a drive-thru tree, they are outside of the parks along Highway 101 (Klamath, Myers Flat and Leggett).

03. There is not much city to be had once you enter the state and national parks. For groceries, stop in Crescent City (north) or Arcata (south) first.

04. Hug a lot of trees.