A Travel Guide to Buenos Aires
Easy-going by nature, colorful at all turns and elegant when needed, Buenos Aires is undoubtedly the love child of Old World European charm and South American vibrancy.
While some cities have a set of sights that tourists flock to, Buenos Aires is a place better observed and relaxed into. It begs to be explored slowly and organically - no plans are needed here. Instead, your days will fall into a rhythm of parks, cortados, street markets, late-night dinners, and even later drinks and dancing. Before leaving, you will have a full stomach, tired feet, and the lingering taste of Fernet on the tongue.
Popular Barrios to explore
To fully experience Buenos Aires in a day is near as impossible as acquiring Hamilton tickets - while some can manage it, it is highly, highly unlikely. Even a weekend would not suffice, though it's a decent start. Buenos Aires has dozens of barrios, or neighborhoods, each revealing a distinct atmosphere, so if you are short on time I recommend checking out two or three that you find most interesting.
Palermo Soho | Young, trendy, hip
A busy area frequented by a younger crowd, SoHo offers great opportunities to experience Argentine culture at its finest - through tango, cuisine and cafes, though not necessarily in that order.
Palermo Hollywood | Lively, nightlife, classy
As the most popular area in the city, Palermo offers the best (and fanciest) restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. It is the main area to stay in as well.
Recoleta | Historic, posh, wealthy
With its art nouveau architecture and and air of Parisian sophistication, Recoleta exudes a sense of grandeur. Here, you’ll find unique bookstores and the city’s famous cemetery (which is more interesting than it is morbid, I promise).
Microcentro | Downtown, small, historic
This area is filled with neoclassical architecture and where you will surely stumble upon the palatial Colon Theatre and elegant Governor's Palace.
San Telmo | Boutique, charming, romantic
With its cobblestone streets, ample cafes and colonial facades, San Telmo is reminiscent of Old World European. The best (and busiest) day to visit is Sunday when the market is open.
La Boca | Bright, colorful, local
This area is both a working-class barrio and a tourist hot spot. It offers pedestrian only streets, markets, colorful buildings, and the city’s futbol stadium.
When to Visit
High Season | Dec - Mar
Summertime in Buenos Aries is warm and sunny. It naturally brings the greatest crowds and, of course, the highest prices.
Average temps: 80-90° F
Shoulder Season | Apr - May (Fall) & Sep - Nov (Spring)
Arguably the best time to visit for lower hotel rates and fewer tourists. Fall foliage and springtime flowers are also a draw.
Average temps: 70-80° F
Low Season | Jun - Aug
While you can still visit in wintertime, it is not prime. The days are colder and often rainier, but you’ll have no crowds to fight through.
average temps: 45-60° F
How Long to stay
If you come to BA to see the whole enchilada, then 5 days will suffice. The city is a sprawling hub, so you could visit a neighborhood a day at a leisurely pace. If BA is a jumping off point to other Argentine destinations, then 2-3 days is ideal. If you only have a day, I wouldn’t overdo it by trying to see everything, though it will surely be tempting.
Recommended Itineraries
1 DAY | the sample platter
Start your day in Recoleta to get a jumpstart on the crowds at the cemetery. After, mosey over to La Boca for markets and lunch.
From there, make your way to San Telmo for the afternoon, and finish up with a nice dinner in Palermo. Since BA is awake until dawn, you can hit up the nightlife if you’re feeling extra ambitious.
2-3 DAYs | the weekend retreat
Take the first day to see the main sights in Microcentro and Recoleta. Break up the day by sprawling out in one of BA’s many parks.
The next day, eat your way through Palermo and enjoy its vibrant nightlife.
Round out your time by exploring a bit further, spending the day between La Boca and San Telmo.
5+ DAYs | uncapped exploration
Not many spend more than 5 days in BA, but if you are one of the blessed few that do, count yourself lucky.
With more time, I suggest ditching any plan and let the wind carry you where it will. With so much to see in each barrio, I recommend focusing on 1-2 each day.
If you experience BA-burnout (unlikely), you can also skip over to Montevideo, Uruguay for a day trip.
transportation
There are two airports that serve the city, and this is important so I’ll say it again for the folks in the back: Buenos Aires has TWO airports. One is mainly for international flights, while the other is for domestic, so you will likely use both. If you have tight flights, plan accordingly. Occasionally domestic flights go out of EZE and international ones go out of AEP. It is rare, but triple-check just to be sure.
flights
Ezeiza International Airport (EZE)
This is the big, bustling international airport that you will arrive and depart the country from. To reach the city, grab an airport taxi (average $20 USD one-way). It is a 45-minute drive without delays, though in traffic it can be a 2 hours jaunt.
Aeroparque Internacional Jorge Newbery (AEP)
The domestic airport, which is far smaller, is located about an hour east of EZE (without traffic). It is also oddly - though conveniently - in the city. It is so close, in fact, that a 15 minute drive from Palermo will get you there.
taxis
Buenos Aires is not small by any stretch of the word. Walking between close neighborhoods works, but it’s easiest to drive, with the best way to get around being by Uber or taxi. For the latter, cash tends to be king, so be sure to have a little moolah on you when out and about. Once in a barrio, walking is the ideal mode of transportation.
Money Matters
tipping Etiquette
10% to waitstaff is standard and typically given in cash.
Taxi drivers don’t expect a tip but it is polite to round to the nearest 5 (i.e. give 55 ARS for a 52 ARS ride).
ATMs
BA’s devilish money machines are not reliable in the least. Airports have especially high fees ($10 USD), so it’s best to do it once. Cash is generally only needed for taxis and tipping.
Average food costs
Breakfast: $3
Lunch: $5
Dinner: $8
Cocktail: $4
Cappuccino: $1.50
Total: $20-$25 USD per day
currency
Argentine Peso (ARS)
70 ARS = $1 USD
Where to Stay
Average cost per night varies by type of accommodation and neighborhood, but $50-$100 per night is a safe bet. Most travelers stay in Palermo or Recoleta, though other barrios are becoming increasingly popular. Below are a few options I most highly recommend.
budget
Selina | Palermo Soho
A boutique hostel and hotel offering a social, yet clean, professional atmosphere. Featuring a rooftop bar, small cafe, and great location.
Bunk: $15 per night, Private: $55 per night
mid-range
airbnb | recoleta
For the entire apartment in a lovely neighborhood, this Airbnb Plus property is a steal. If you plan to stay for multiple nights, it’s a standout choice.
$25 per night, plus one-time $40 service and cleaning fee
upscale
Esplendor Plaza Francia | Recoleta
Best for those looking for the most straight-forward, peace-of-mind option in a convenient location.
$90 per night
Top Sights
La Recoleta Cemetery | recoleta, Free
While many may find it odd to stroll through an old cemetery, it undoubtedly exudes more graceful grandeur than morbidity. Located in Recoleta, it is the resting place for Argentina’s wealthy and elite. At any given time, I’d say there are more living souls wandering the grounds than those at rest, so arrive early to beat the crowds. 1-2 hours covers the whole thing.
San Telmo Market | san telmo, Free
A lively area in itself, though on Sundays it transforms into a bustling marketplace filled with locals and tourists alike. Enjoy streets lit up by fancy-feet tango dancers, quaint cafes, and shopping nooks and crannies.
El Caminito | La Boca, Free
Approaching El Caminto, the barrio’s pedestrian-only street, feels like walking into a circus: you are immediately assaulted by bright colors and, if we’re being honest, creepy figurines. Bright facades crawl through the streets, with walls the color of bumblebees and mis-matched shutters smeared across them. There are artful details tucked down alleys, multi-colored cobblestones beneath your feet, and dancers in signature black and red sashaying the day away.
Plaza de Mayo | Microcentro, Free
This elegant and picturesque square features several neatly manicured government buildings, including Casa Rosada, the city’s presidential office, as well as the congress building.
El Zanjon | San telmo, $22 USD
Join an hour-long historic tour of a 200-year old mansion that takes you underneath the streets of Buenos Aires and through secret tunnels. Spooky and fascinating all in the same breath.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid | norte, Free
Situated in barrio Norte, this former 1920’s theatre has long been touted as one of the world’s most beautiful bookstores. Instead of seats, the theatre is filled to the brim with books and the stage serves as a small cafe.
my favorite eats & drinks
coffee
Full City Coffee House | Palermo soho
A down-to-earth coffee spot with an open and airy space to sit inside as well as a cute courtyard in back if you want to get roasty-toasty.
lunch
la poesía | san telmo
For a pleasantly quaint cafe with delicious sandwiches and fresh lemonade in what feels like a local spot, you can’t beat La Poesía. It also makes for a good coffee break.
dinner
don julio | Palermo
This is a top-rated spot, but it’s not necessarily fine dining - it’s just really, really delicious. The line to get in is long, but complimentary champagne while you wait sure helps.
bar
j.w. Bradley | Palermo soho
A sultry and intimate ambiance paired with phenomenal cocktails. What more could you ask for in a speakeasy?
last-minute tips
01. The locals of Buenos Aires are self-dubbed as Porteños, or “people of the port"“
02. Don’t plan to eat dinner until at least 8pm. Some restaurants will still have a queue waiting to sit at 11pm. I’m honestly not sure when Porteños sleep.
03. The city is generally safe, though pickpocketing is common. As always, be watchful of your things.
04. Malbec. The answer is always malbec.
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