Amsterdam: A Comprehensive Travel Guide
AMSTERDAM IS MORE THAN TULIPS, BICYCLES AND RED LIGHTS—THOUGH IT HAS A COPIOUS AMOUNT OF EACH, TO BE SURE. KNOWN EQUALLY FOR ITS WORLD-CLASS MUSEUMS AND CONTEMPORARY LIFESTYLE, THIS LIVELY HUB HAS COME A LONG WAY FROM ITS 18TH CENTURY DAYS AS A TRADING PORT TO BECOME ONE OF THE TOP CITIES TO VISIT IN EUROPE.
Amsterdam, the capital of the Netherlands, refuses to fit into a snug box of adjectives. It is modern yet historic; energized but laidback; bustling yet small and romantic. Concentric canals, lined by narrow Dutch buildings and a stream of bicycles, define the city’s historic center, an area filled to the brim with museums and coffeeshops. There is an air of liveliness to the city, a strange but exhilarating mixture of relaxation and productivity that occurs all at once.
If you are planning your first trip to Amsterdam (or if, like myself, you are eager to return), then this comprehensive guide is for you. Below are recommendations and tips galore to make the most of your time.
Table of contents
Snapshot
Itineraries
What To See & Do
Eats & Drinks
When to Visit
Travel Logistics
Where to Stay
Last Minute Tips
Nearby Destinations
Location
Netherlands, Europe
Language
Dutch
Population
1.1 million
Why visit?
Museums, bustling but laid-back city, architecture
How long to stay
3-4 days
1 day
Choose one or two big museums to visit, such as Van Gogh, Rijksmuseum or Moco Museum.
Grab a beer (or other vice) after strolling through Red Light District.
2-3 days (recommended)
Use the Iamsterdam Card to visit 5-6 museums over two days. In between, take in the city or enjoy a rest at Vondelpark.
Rent a bike and explore the neighborhoods, stopping for coffee and meals along the way.
4+ days
With an additional day or two, you can really relax into the city and meander at a more leisurely pace.
Spread out your museum visits over more days - or sneak more in!
Horitucus Botanicas
Originally built in 1638 as a medicinal herb garden, it began to flourish as more seeds and plants were introduced. Today, it hosts over 6,000 plant varieties - including a 2,000 year old agave cactus! - across three green houses, an outdoor garden, a “glassroom” (classroom) and small museum.
Tip: Take a break here between the heavy historical museums of the Jewish Cultural Quarter and enjoy the serene greenery.
Museums
With over fifty to choose from, the words “Amsterdam” and “museum” have become almost synonymous. The big ones to visit are the Van Gogh Museum, Rijksmuseum, Anne Frank House and the Jewish Historical Museum. Other great ones are Foam Photography Museum and Moco Museum of modern art.
Want something a little more quirky? Try the Cheese Museum, Kattenkabinet (it’s just it sounds like) or the Sexmuseum. Lucky for you, I’ve written a whole post dedicated to Amsterdam museums!
Read More: Amsterdam Museum Guide
Go Thrift Shopping
My ideal souvenir is something I’ll actually use and that doesn’t have a location broadcast all over it. In fact, I’m currently wearing puffin socks from Iceland while huddled under an alpaca blanket from Peru. While in Amsterdam, it was colder than I anticipated and so I went thrift shopping, more out of necessity and less for a souvenir. I snagged a warm black/white/yellow reversible head band from Kilo Shop that I still wear today.
Kilo Shop is great because you pay by the kilo, making it affordable. Other shops include Episode, Bijs on Vintage and Mood Indigo.
Heineken Experience
Take an interactive tour through Heineken’s original beer factory, which was closed in 1988. Is Heineken the world’s greatest beer? Absolutely not, not even close. But it’s a fun way to learn about the brewery’s history and beer-making process. For €18 per adult (if booked online, €21 if not), you get the tour and two cold brewskis.
VondelPark
Just east of the main city center hub is the green oasis that is Vondelpark. Established in 1885, it boasts 120 acres of tree-lined trails, green spaces along a small river and places to eat.
Tip: Grab takeout or a pack a picnic and enjoy lunch here between visiting Rijksmuseum and other nearby museums and galleries.
Red Light District
If there were ever a place to indulge in all of one’s vices, Amsterdam’s Red Light District is the place to do so. The area, also known as De Wallen, is a generally assuming spot during the day then transforms into a neon-lit maze at night.
Drink in the culture and experience the vibe by walking through the streets, grabbing a beer, relaxing at a coffeeshop (which are deceivingly cannabis cafes) and enjoying a much-needed snack afterward. For the ambitious and curious, stop at the intriguing Sexmuseum and go to a peep show or strip club (yes, I said it - live a little).
Important Note: Out of respect, do not bring cameras to the Red Light District or any take photos of sex workers in brothel windows. Anti-camera enforcers in the area are all to eager to chuck your camera into the canal, so I don’t recommend trying your luck.
Go to all the cafes that you can
Amsterdam is a city made for wandering on foot - and bike. I enjoyed adding a day to meander about at a leisurely pace, stopping for snacks, meals and coffee breaks in between. Along the way, you’re sure to stumble on oddities and intriguing sights. Take, for example, a mysterious golden plaque of a hand groping a breast just outside the Oude Kerk church’s doorstep.
Noordermarkt
If your visit falls over a Saturday (likely) or Monday (less likely), add in a stop at the Noordermarket near the Jordaan neighborhood. It’s a small open-air farmers market with all the classics: fresh fruits and veggies, flowers, cheese, artistic trinkets, and the like.
Stroll the canals
There are over 60 miles of canals snaking through the city, which were built in the 17th century during the Dutch Golden Age. Three major canals serve as the city’s arteries: inner Herengracht (Patricians' Canal), middle Keizersgracht (Emperor's Canal) and outer Prinsengracht (Prince's Canal).
Each year, nearly 15,000 bicycles are pulled from the canal’s waters in what has become dubbed as “bike fishing,” which is just about the most Amsterdam thing I can think of.
Eat the gouda stuff
Ah yes, gouda, the glorious and beloved favorite. This enduring mild-flavored cheese has been a Netherlands staple since the 12th century when 35 pound wheels of cheese graced the medieval market scene. A fun fact to put in your back pocket: while it is named after the southern Holland city of Gouda, it was not actually made there but traded there.
Any way you slice it, finding some gouda and relishing in its deliciousness should be a top priority when visiting Amsterdam. Looking to bring some home or do a tasting? Head to the Amsterdam Cheese Museum!
(Think you know your cheese? Try your hand at this cheese quiz. Not to brag, but I received a perfect 10/10 score.)
Coffee
Bake My Day | Delicious pastries and coffee in the De Wallen neighborhood
Cloud Gallery | A clean, modern cafe in the Jordaan neighborhood with great people-watching window seats
Back to Black | Lively ambiance and delicious food and drinks - what more do you need? There’s also a cute cat, which, for me, is a huge selling point.
De Koffieschenkerij | Hard to pronounce, easy to love. This place is all cozy ambiance, both inside and outside.
Tip: If looking for coffee, search for "coffee" or "cafes." Here, "coffeeshops" refer to places that sell marijuana.
Food
De Kas | Tucked in a greenhouse in a park, this gem is as farm-to-table as you can get. It is just outside the main city area and operates on a rotating prix fixe menu. Go for lunch for an equally delightful experience at a lower price.
Van Wonderen Stroopwafels | You can’t very well come to Amsterdam and not try a classic stroopwafel!
Bar Bukowski | This literary bar and cafe in Amsterdam Oost (East) is a lively spot at any time of the day.
Pancakehouse Upstairs | As the name suggests, this is a pancake house tucked in the upstairs portion of a building. If you like quirky places and pancakes (it’s literally all they offer), pop on in.
Bars
Hiding in Plain Sight | Often touted as the best bar in Amsterdam, this speakeasy-like spot serves up incredible handcrafted cocktails.
Bar the Tailor | For a classy, upscale vibe, head to this bar in the Red Light District.
Three Little Bottle | Also known as De Drie Fleschjes, this historic brown cafe (Dutch pub) has been in business since 1650. Mosey over for a traditional Old World beer atmosphere.
Cafe de Dokter | Join the locals at this little wooden-paneled pub that exudes character and warmth.
shoulder season | mar-apr, sep-oct
Spring, especially April, is prime tulip time. Fall sees more rain than spring, but the days are generally mild.
Average Temps: 45°-60° F
Low Season | nov-feb
November and December see the rainiest and cloudy days, though all of winter can be dreary (except the holidays, of course). The trade-offs are less tourists and lower rates. I enjoyed my visit in winter!
Average Temps: 37°-42° F
high season | May-Aug
As with most places in Europe, summer is a busy, tourist-filled time. Accommodation prices are higher but there are fun festivals and sunshine to be had!
Average Temps: 60°-70°+ F
Getting There
Taxi | By car, it’s about 20 minutes from the Schiphol Airport to the city center, costing around €40.
Train | This is the simplest and most cost-effective way to get to the city. It operates 24 hours a day, leaving in 15-minute increments, and takes you to Amsterdam Centraal Station, smack in the middle of the action. It is a 15-minute ride and €5 per ticket.
Getting Around
Foot | With its many shops and cafes, it is an excellent city to explore by foot.
Bike | This is perhaps the best way to get around! Amsterdam is a bike-friendly city, complete with designated lanes, making it less daunting as a visitor.
Tram | The quintessential blue and white trams are an ideal way to get between neighborhoods.
Bus | The now cashless system is simple to use and even easier with apps, such as 9292. The metro and GVB is free when using the Iamsterdam Card.
Metro | Typically best for getting a bit further out rather than within the city. Centraal Station is the main terminus.
Car | Within the city, a car would be more of a hinderance than a help.
Budget
Ecomama: A well-decorated, cozy hostel with a convivial atmosphere (double private: $55/night; dorm bed: $20/night)
Durty Nellys Inn: A centrally-located hostel with sleeping pods (dorm bed: $45/night)
ClickNOORD: Your quintessential hostel but with plenty of space (single private: $47/night; dorm bed: $20/night)
View more on Hostelworld
Photo courtesy of Ecomama
Mid-range
Lloyd Hotel: This modern hotel with rustic touches offers rooms ranging from 1-5 stars ($60-$170/night)
Hotel the Exchange: Also a 1-5 star hotel, this one feels like you’re staying in a piece of artwork ($100-$140/night)
Airbnb Loft: This cozy, well-located attic loft makes an ideal base when in Amsterdam ($109/night, 2-night minimum)
View more on Booking.com or Airbnb
Cozy Loft, photo courtesy of Airbnb
Upscale
The Toren: A polished 40-room boutique hotel along the canal offering elegant-meets-moody medieval decor ($150-$375/night)
The Dylan: A modern hotel in the historical center of the city ($400-$1450/night)
Faralda Crane Hotel: Perhaps the most unique, if not priciest, stay, but to stay inside the top of a crane, it may just be a worth it ($1200-$1300/night)
Secret Suite, courtesy of Faralda Crane Hotel
01. The Iamsterdam sign isn’t worth it, in my opinion. Each letter has a line of people waiting for a photo, taking away from the appeal.
02. Nearly every Dutch speaks English, which should obliterate any fear of miscommunication. (Though a “dank u” never hurts.)
03. It is an easy city to “feel like a local.” Go to cafes, sit awhile, wander the streets to find subtle pieces of art.
Utrecht
Thirty minutes away by train, Utrecht is a lively medieval city with a rich history. With the university, it offers a vibrant, youthful atmosphere and the car-free city center makes exploring all the more enjoyable.
Rotterdam
This hip and multi-cultural port city boasts interesting architecture, a modern vibe and a great cafe scene. It’s a quick train ride (~35 minutes) southwest from Amsterdam.
Zaanse Schans
For perhaps the most Dutch experience imaginable, head to this town due north of Amsterdam. In this farm village you’ll find wooden houses, windmills, tulips, clog shoes - the Dutch works. It’s historic if mildly kitschy.
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